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Close to home and comfortable

Bar Review: The Varsity

R. Chergosky

Issue date: 12/6/07 Section: Mixed Plate
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Media Credit: Taylor Hall
"I've been at the Varsity since we opened," said bartender Vibiana Kealoha Wong. The Varsity took the place of what was previously Magoo's.

The Varsity at Puck's Alley
1035 University Ave., #201
Price: $5 to $10
Rating:


In between classes or studying for finals, you may find yourself thirsting for a spirituous beverage. If it is after 8 p.m., however, you will find the campus proper to be sorely lacking in this regard. Undeterred, you venture down University Avenue and end up at Puck's Alley.

As you direct your gaze inward, something is amiss. You see row upon row of beers on tap and the familiar personnel, but the interior is missing its previous 19th-century charm.

After an extensive update and reconfiguration, what was formerly Magoo's Pizza reopened as the Varsity earlier this year, but Magoo's pizza can still be had in the parking lot if you are interested. If you are looking to try something new, the Varsity is now catered by India Curry Express as well.

The atmosphere is that of a very pleasant, no-frills, open-air restaurant/bar. Is there fault to be found? Probably. But I have trouble casting aspersions toward an establishment that offers $5 pitchers of beer and has Slayer on the Internet jukebox. But the reality is that booze isn't food and besides, the food is really the story.

As bar food goes, it is something else - well within the budget of the average student, but well worth the trip. Inside, India Curry Express serves up a variety of Indian-style dishes. If you aren't so much into chickpeas, Kirin Sushi offers some of the best sushi in the neighborhood, from poke to tempura, at prices that are easily justifiable to the financial aid office. If you aren't feeling adventurous, pizza by the slice is available as well.

Do not expect a server to take your order at any of these locations - it isn't that kind of place. However, your food will be delivered to your table in a timely fashion. If it is busy, it will take a long time for your order to arrive. If you were in a hurry to do anything, you wouldn't live here to begin with.

Overall, the Varsity adequately whets the appetite for delicacy and depravity all in one easy-to-reach location. On-site parking is ample, but if you are there for any length of time, I would recommend walking home.
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